It really pays to swatch. I’ve known this forever, but am now really trying to remember it before I go headlong into a big project. This swatch is about several things.
First is linen stitch. How well does it work with fingering weight yarn and how does it look in a pattern dyed yarn? So I knit some up.
Actually I knit an 18 inch strip using size 1 needles. It takes 10-12 rows to get one inch of linen st in this size yarn. But I like it a lot, so would be willing to knit a long time to get a nice cardigan band or a cuff for a sleeve.
Thinking about bands and trims reminded me of ruffles. What pattern do I like best for ruffles? I don ‘t really know. Time to swatch some more. Might as well use the band.
So I cast on 20 extra stitches and used the first 20 stitches of the band and did the following:
Row 1: (K1, yo) in each st to the end, end k1.
Row 2-4: Work in stockinette st.
Row 5: (K1, Kfront and back) repeat across
Row 6: P all. Row 7–9: Knit all. Row 10: Bind off in Knit.
Discovered: 1: Band restricts curling of piece just a bit; 2. yo increase drapes more than Kf&b; 3: I like a little garter at the end of the ruffle with a RS bind off. Need to remember #3. 4: Don’t like wobbly edges.
Therefore must knit another ruffle.
- Pickup one st in each of the bound off stitches.
- K5, Purl to last 5 sts, k5. (Keep 1st and last 5 sts in garter st.)
- K row
- P row
- (K1, yo) across for increases
- (K2, yo) across for increases
- P1, yo, (P2, yo) across
- Bind off in K.
I like that it’s not so kinky, curly. I like the openness of the yo increase. Increasing every four rows is nice. Garter edges are good too. But what is the easiest and fastest increase to use? Can I use a rib stitch for a ruffle?
- Knit up the next 18-20 strips from the strip.
- K row
- K row
- (K1, M1) across using the Lifted increase for the M1
- K1, P1 across–a 1×1 rib
- rep. row 4
- bind off in knit using the fingering wt yarn doubled.
Rib makes it stand up more and curl less. Love the doubled yarn bind off, both the enlarged size and the blending of the colors.
- Look at the bind off from the top.
Now I lose my mind. How do I do a double ruffle? (Why would I want one?)
- K 8 sts from the linen strip.
- K1, Inc 1, K to last st, inc 1, k1
- (k1, yo) across, end K1
- Grab a double pointed needle or a toothpick and slip the yo’d sts to that separate needle. It’s every other st; don’t twist them. Hold this needle to the back of the work.The row goes( K1, slip 1 to dpn) end k1.
- Ignore the dpn and those sts. Working on your regular needle, (k1, yo) to the end.
- Bind off in knit. Part one is now finished.
Part 2: Attach yarn to the sts on the dpn and k2–3 rows. Bind off in knit.
Part 3: With the RS facing you, pick up one st in each of the bumps created by knitting row 2. (8 sts) Begin picking up on the left hand side. Attach the yarn on the right hand side and begin knitting.
- K f&b
- (k, k f&b) across
- repeat row 3
- bind off in purl
What I learned? Too much is too much. But I kind of like picking up across some RS bumps and adding a bit of ruffle. Nice embellishment.
- This bit across the back is just plain ugly.
- Am I finished? Nonsense.
Row 1: (K3, P3) 2x, k3
Row 2: (P3, K3) 2x, p3.
Repeat once or twice more.
Could be the end of a shawl?!?
About the yarn. This is a sock yarn from Coats and Clark, Red Heart Heart and Sole Color 3960, that was sent to me to do some design with. At first I didn’t like it, but that changed.
The dye for pattern effect is never a favorite for me, but the uneven stitch count skipped the pattern and just blended the stitches in a really nice way.
It’s not Malabrigo, CTH, or Tosh, so it doesn’t have that softness or clarity of st pattern; but it also doesn’t cost as much so you can afford to buy it just to play and discover.
True Confession—The longest wearing, best-looking-after-being-washed-forever socks in my extensive collection are two pair of Lion Brand sock yarn designs. The yarn in this appears to be the same blend and spin. And they are sock enough.
I will use this yarn again and I will nag Cat to get them to create some solids.