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Sarlat to Lescaux to Orleans

Sarlat was great, but brief. We are in the phase of the trip where we are somewhere different every day as we make our way back to Paris and the airport.

The medieval part of Sarlat was mostly restaurants and a busy square. They had a great Walk for Cancer sign that I had not seen before.


Restaurants advertised their fares.


I saw a sign with a picture of a sculpture I fell in love with while researching the trip. Part of the lure was the mystery of it. There are hundreds of photos of this sculpture on the web, but none of them explain it. I did take a picture of the sign.

A bit later I noticed the sculpture—–just in front of the shop with the sign! Duh! I jumped up to get closer. I had a small conversation with him about his mysterious self and when I went to take my picture—-dead battery! At least I know where I can steal some pictures.

I asked Chris (our B&B owner) but he didn’t know the origin. Thank goodness he had excellent wi-fi so I searched and found this on Flickr.
“A bronze statue ‘le badaud’ (bystander) ponders the view over the market square. The artist is Gérard Auliac of Vitrac.” He is smaller than life size, or maybe he is medieval life size, fewer vitamins and all. I’m not the only person to talk to him.

I would love to spend more time here. But it is on to the caves and the Hotel Cro-Magnon. Seriously. Steve couldn’t resist the name.

The whole day yesterday was spent trying to get Steve into a cave. Limited tickets, no reservations, schedules not followed, but finally he agreed to go to Lescaux Two, the reproduction of Lescaux. Even then we had to wait 90 min. for the ticket booth to open.

During the wait Steve met a cycling tour and talked to the guy leading it. Turned out that Christian has his permanent home in Arlington, Mass. Go, Kate. Steve seemed to really get interested in doing a tour after he saw these guys and learned there are tours for the fit, experienced rider. Yeah, don’t believe anything your wife says about these things.

He was moved by the cave and learned bunches. Later he left me in town and went to see some prehistoric sculpture which he liked. I knit and drank another Leffe in a bar filled with old French women traveling in small packs. By old, I mean they looked older than I do. Maybe.


This part of France, the Dordogne, is our favorite. It reminds us of the Appalachians. The roads wind uphill forever and we rarely see another car. Of course, we still do not stop for pictures.

We had a luxurious dinner at the Hotel Cro-Magnon. Starter was goat cheese ravioli set in a bowl of a carrot purée, garnished with tomatoes and veggies. Then I had salmon with julienne veggies and Steve had slow cooked lamb in a pastry. For the finish Steve had marscapone cheese and cake. I had salad and cheese. Major good cheese.

20121005-204054.jpgUp early this morning and headed north to Orleans, with a very moving stop at Oradour sur Glane, a village burned by the Nazi SS shortly after DDay, killing all inhabitants. The village has been left untouched since that time as a memorial to the horror of war. I’ll give that a blog of its own.

20121005-204254.jpgStaying at a random side of the motorway hotel BUT with a Dutch pro cycling team led by Johnny Hoogerland. We are having dinner in the hotel restaurant, as is the team. Could be fun.

More later–


3 Responses

  1. Dear Jane, pictures of Sarlat are beautiful. Been following you on Google Earth and wow! the pictures there are amazing. Still following Alais’ adventure in the Labyrinth. Still slightly confused by it. Will you post one more time before leaving Paris? I think your blogs are awesome and I’m glad you are knitting, but the sketches, I would like to see. How is your knee/hip doing? Still using the cane?

  2. Thanks so much for letting us tag along on your trip. You’re doing a great job of capturing it. i’m impressed by the varied landscapes of France. And i’m glad you got the cane to help you out.

  3. Thanks for the comment. I miss you. My own fault.

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